4 January 2026

Birding in French Polynesia - Day 3

Birding in French Polynesia III

3 January 2026

Over the next 28 days, I will be spending my time birding on Tahiti and Mo'orea, two islands in the Windward Islands, an archipelago belonging to French Polynesia, an overseas territory of France. Birds in italics indicate lifers.


Saturday Jan 3 2026 - Day 3

Today, we woke up after sleeping nearly 13hrs, all afternoon, and all night. In the morning, we were woken by the many RJs that were being as noisy as they could possibly be. We watched the 5:20am sunrise while preparing for the day ahead. We didn't have any food, so for breakfast we went to the Urban Cafe, our accommodation.

Enjoying breakfast at the Urban Cafe

Notre-Dame Cathedral of Pape'ete

After the best breakfast of my life at the Urban Cafe (highly recommended), walked towards central Pape'ete and the Rue Francis Puara Cowan, along a small canal. We quickly found a Wandering Tattler, which landed on the balcony of a nearby building. We also saw a couple of Waxbills with a couple of Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, and a few Zebra Doves.

Chestnut-breasted Mannikins + Common Waxbills

View over the highlands of Tahiti

Zebra Dove

Me birding along the canal

We saw many fish in the canal, mainly Mozambique Tilapia. The canal itself was much dirtier and polluted than we expected. We also spotted some red dragonflies, which we believe to be Coral-tailed CloudwingsTholymis tillarga. We spotted some Great Frigatebirds, and saw a Myna nest before finding my main target species for this location: the Little Heron. Formerly known as the Striated Heron, it has been spilt from the South American population and the Galápagos population, and all Old World birds have been classed under the taxa “Little Heron”. The birds on Tahiti are of a rare and fragile, endemic subspecies (B. a. patruelis). The bird we saw, which was a juvenile, had been colour-ringed with green and orange tags. 

Mozambique Tilapia

Little Heron

We then continued walking, towards the Taaone Beach, in Pīra'e, seeing many of the same species on the way. When we got there, we immediately spotted some Brown Noddies, and White Terns, among the more common species. We settled down in the shade of a parasol, and I soon got another lifer, when a Great Crested Tern flew past. 

Great Crested Tern, in flight

At this point, my life list was sitting at 299, but I decided to go for a swim in the Pacific Ocean before. The water was cool, but nowhere near as cold as in Aberdeen on the 3rd of January. After a while, I got the camera and went for a quick walk, since I had spotted another Wandering Tattler in the distance. I walked towards the mouth of a small stream, where a saw a couple Red-vented Bulbuls. As I was photographing them, I noticed a grey bird moving behind them; it was the Wandering Tattler. I took some nice photos before it flew to the far bank of the river. 

Wandering Tattler

Wandering Tattler, in flight

I then went back to where my parents were resting, under the parasol, to do some seawatching. I set up my scope and started scanning the distant water, spotting
White Terns, Brown Noddies, and, eventually, my lifer Tahiti Petrel! My life list had hit 300!!! I was ecstatic, since this was an amazing bird to hit such a milestone. The Tahiti Petrel is a breeding endemic of Tahiti, meaning it only breeds on Tahiti. I watch the birds as they glided over the water, alongside Brown Noddies. I tried taking some photos, but they came out quite bad. I also saw a Brown Booby resting on a buoy, and a flock of Great Crested Terns, resting on a distant island.

Terrible photo of a Tahiti Petrel, over the horizon

Brown Booby, sat on red buoy

Brown Noddy

We were busy trying to open coconuts, when I saw more frigatebirds fly over. I took some photos and, later, at home, we confirmed that one of these birds was an adult female Lesser Frigatebird. We also saw a juvenile bird, which we think is also a Lesser Frigatebird.

Lesser Frigatebird (female)

Juvenile Lesser Frigatebird?

Aeroplane from Air Tahiti

Breadfruit

Birding in French Polynesia - Day 2

Birding in French Polynesia II

2 January 2026

Over the next 28 days, I will be spending my time birding on Tahiti and Mo'orea, two islands in the Windward Islands, an archipelago belonging to French Polynesia, an overseas territory of France. Birds in italics indicate lifers.


Friday Jan 2 2026 - Day 2

Today, at 6am, we arrived at Fa'a'a Airport, just outside of Pape'ete, the capital of French Polynesia. The second we stepped out of the aeroplane, we were met by a warm, humid air we had never felt before. Within a minute of arriving, I got my first lifer, a Common Myna, a bird that has been introduced to Polynesia and has since taken over. It has since become one of the most common species, damaging the endemic and native avifauna and ecosystems. However, its invasive status was the last thing on my mind as I observed for the first time this surprisingly beautiful bird, closely related to the Starlings I see back home. Soon after, I got another lifer, a Red-vented Bulbul, also introduced and invasive, this bird originates from the Indian subcontinent, just like the Myna. I watched the birds as they flew around the car park, in front of the airport. I also saw a few Feral Pigeons, reminding me of the UK. Eventually, we got a taxi, and, just before entering, I got my lifer Zebra Dove. To my huge surprise, they were the most miniscule things ever! While I was learning about the birds here, I thought they would be the size of Feral Pigeons, or Collared Doves, but these birds were only slightly larger than Robins. 

Arriving, exhausted, in French Polynesia

On the drive into town, we saw Red Junglefowls, or chickens, for the general public, although I find Red Junglefowl to be a more attracting and interesting name. Before too long, we arrived at Bougainville Park, where we took some time to rest, and in my case, to bird. I soon saw my lifer Blue-billed White Tern, a beautiful and majestic bird that's recently had a three-way split from White Tern. I quickly got some more lifers, including a couple Chestnut-breasted Mannikins and Common Waxbills, as well as a very elusive Silvereye, that only showed itself very briefly. 

Zebra Dove in Bougainville Park

My best photo of the Silvereye

Red-vented Bulbul, in a tree

Red-vented Bulbul

Waxbill

White Tern nest in tree, Bougainville Park

Chestnut-breasted Mannikin, feeding on grasses

After some initial birding, we walked to the McDonald's, for breakfast, although for our internal clocks, it was dinner, due to the -10 time zone difference, and jet lag. We saw some more Mynas, which were trying to grab some food from us, and a rooster RJ (I will refer to Red Junglefowls as RJs since chicken is too boring and Red Junglefowl is a mouthful to say, and annoyingly long to write). While we were finishing our enormous cups of juice, we got yet another lifer; a Great Frigatebird. We watched a female glide over the buildings in front of us and saw a flock of them in the distance. Eventually, we walked down to Pape'ete Harbour, spotting a baby Red-vented Bulbul and some more RJs.

Male RJ, hiding under some benches

Baby Red-vented Bulbul

When we arrived, we soon saw a few Brown Noddies and another large brown/black bird flying past a cruise ship, which turned out to be a Pacific Reef-Heron. We then saw two male Blue Moon Butterflies, also known as Great Eggflies, and watched them as they battled.

Brown Noddy at Pape'ete Harbour

Pacific Reef-Heron (Dark morph)

Male Blue Moon Butterflies

Blue Moon Butterfly

Female Great Frigatebird

View over the Pacific Ocean

We then walked towards the Pā'ōfa'i Gardens, where we watched RJs, Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, more Zebra Doves, and some more of the same birds we had seen earlier. We also saw a few not-so-friendly-looking feral dogs.

Male RJ

Chestnut-breasted Mannikin

Zebra Dove

3 January 2026

Birding in French Polynesia - Day 1 - Way There

Birding in French Polynesia I

1 January 2026

Over the next 28 days, I will be spending my time birding on Tahiti and Mo'orea, two islands in the Windward Islands, an archipelago belonging to French Polynesia, an overseas territory of France.


Thursday Jan 1 2026 - Day 1

Today, we took the coach to London Heathrow Airport, we left around lunchtime, in order to arrive on time for our flight to Los Angeles International Airport, famously known as LAX. While we were there, I set up my scope facing south, looking out to the hills of Surrey, a county I have never birded in before. Therefore, I was looking for some species to complete my English eBird species map. After seeing a Carrion Crow and a couple Woodpigeons, I managed to add Surrey to my ever-increasing English county list. 

Surrey encircled in red

After a bit of time, it got dark, and we boarded a Virgin Atlantic Boeing 787-9. The aircraft was reasonably comfy, compared to the over planes we've taken to Hungary and to Spain. Most importantly for me, it had screens, which kept me and my sisters entertained for the whole 11hrs.

Flying over Greenland

After our flight, we took some time to pass the customs, after which, I was desperately searching for some birds to add to my USA list. I have been to the United States before, to San Diego, however, I was only a year old, and no birder, therefore I do not remember any of the birds I saw. Even a very common species in this part of the world could be a lifer for me. Unfortunately, I didn't manage to see any birds during our 3hr layover. 

Birding at LAX (in the dark)

We then boarded our next flight on an Air France Airbus A350-900, to Fa'a'a International Airport, on Tahiti. This flight was to last 8hrs, however despite getting much improved entertainment - better games, better shows, better map quality, and even a live camera from behind the gears and from the tail fin - I found myself feeling worse than on the previous flight.